Expertise, dedication and sleepless nights!
A rescuer's first-hand experience of the methods and complexities involved in successfully hand rearing kittens, by Cat Sanctuary Norfolk.
Cat Chat is thrilled to welcome Christine, Manager at Cat Sanctuary Norfolk to tell us all about their work helping kittens in need:
Hand rearing kittens is a delicate and complicated process which requires not only attention to feeding, but also environment, toileting, cleaning and general health. It takes a lot of time and dedication, and often a lack of sleep, especially with very young kittens. Having said that, the rewards of nurturing and saving these little lives is immeasurable.
Part of our work at Cat Sanctuary Norfolk involves hand rearing kittens. There are various reasons why hand-rearing may be necessary, including kittens being orphaned or abandoned, or if their mum’s health prevents her from nursing them. Sometimes, if she has a large litter, the mother cat may simply not produce enough milk for them all, so a helping hand is needed.
I’d like to tell you about two of my most memorable hand-rearing experiences. Let me introduce you to Noddy and Vernon…
Noddy’s Story
Noddy was brought to me after being found with his three siblings on a very cold evening. They were less than a week old, and extremely hungry! Thankfully they took to a bottle very quickly, with 2 hourly feeds - including night-time. When kittens get older, night feeds can gradually be cut down and eventually omitted, but kittens as young as this need feeding throughout the night, which is very tiring, but of course, completely worth it.
While Noddy’s siblings thrived, he didn’t. Milk was dribbling out of his mouth even though he was trying hard to suckle. A visit to the vet showed that this was because he had a slightly deformed mouth. But with perseverance and lots of ‘little and often’ feeds, thankfully he started to gain weight.
Kittens cannot control their body temperature until they are about 4 – 5 weeks old, so providing a heat source is important. I had previously been given a sweatshirt with a fleecy pouch attached, and Noddy and I made good use of it, as you can see in the photo! A heat pad especially designed for kittens or puppies works well, but there must be an area that’s not heated that they can crawl to if they want to.
Weaning Noddy at four weeks wasn’t as difficult as I had thought it was going to be. He could manage kitten kibble well, but eating wet food wasn't quite so easy for him, and that’s still the case today.
As he got older it was apparent he had some other problems too; the vet thought it was neurological, perhaps as a result of being starved of oxygen at birth. Poor Noddy’s legs didn’t work very well, but he was a little fighter and battled on.
Whilst Noddy’s siblings eventually moved on to homes of their own, Noddy became my own cat and has stayed with me ever since. Four years on and he is coping very well with his disabilities. He enjoys his food and manages a litter tray without any trouble. He still sticks his tongue out in photos though!
Vernon’s story
Vernon was about a week old, when he was found by a dog walker who heard him crying in some bushes. He was taken to a local veterinary practice, who put the little chap in an incubator to warm him up. The staff there fell in love with him straight away, but asked us to take over his care as hand rearing such a tiny kitten takes a lot of time and commitment.
Vernon wasn’t very keen on the milk supplement to start with, but after starting him off with a syringe with a teat on the end, he was soon saying, “okay I like it after all, give me more!” He was having small feeds every hour (night-time too) for the first 24 hours. I needed matchsticks for my eyes after a week! But as he grew stronger and hungrier the feeds were gradually spaced out.
Anyone experienced with hand-rearing dreads the phrase 'failing to thrive', and is on constant alert for warning signs such as diarrhoea, constipation, or a runny nose or eyes, and will know when to call for veterinary help. This can be as a result of the kitten lacking in natural colostrum (present in the mother’s milk after giving birth) which is rich in antibodies to build their immune system. Unfortunately, Vernon had severe diarrhoea, but with medication speedily prescribed by our vet, that soon cleared up. However, it did give the poor little chap a rather sore bottom, the answer to which was a spot of Vaseline.
When Vernon was starting to wean; he was reluctant at first. His reaction to kitten mousse was along the lines of; "No thanks! Are you trying to poison me?" My trick to encourage him was a little warmed cooked chicken which he couldn’t resist, and weaning was well on the way.
One of my colleagues knits mice in various sizes, so Vernon had a large one that he cuddled up to when he was sleepy. As he grew, the mouse was his constant companion. He carried it everywhere with him, and of course took it with him when he went to his new home, as a bouncing full of fun kitten!
Hand-Rearing Basics
I would never advise anyone without training or experience to attempt hand-rearing, but for anyone thinking of helping out at a rescue centre, or perhaps fostering kittens, here are a few basics that are important to learn…
When / How much to feed
The general rule for feeding hand rear kittens is little and often, as their tummies are small, and their kidneys can’t cope with too much liquid at one time. Be guided by the instructions on the milk replacer, but also take into account their weight; very often the kittens we rear are underweight for their age. They should be weighed daily to ensure they are gaining weight nicely. 10 – 15 grams daily is ideal.
What to feed
There are quite a few milk replacers on the market for hand rearing kittens, these are usually in powder format. One important fact, is never to feed kittens on cows’ milk. They will end up very poorly if you try to do this.
How to feed
There are various feeding bottles and teats designed especially for feeding young kittens. If they refuse to suckle at first, a syringe with a special teat is helpful, but be careful how you do it, because if too much is pushed through, choking can occur. Once they are suckling happily, move to a bottle as soon as possible.
Before using the bottle upend it and ensure the milk is coming out drop by drop. As they grow, a larger hole will be suitable to use. Kittens can also be burped by gently patting or rubbing their backs. One important thing is to never hold them on their backs while feeding, in case they inhale fluid into their lungs. They should be lying or sitting with a comfortable belly-down posture.
Toileting
kittens need to be toileted after feeding as they can’t do this for themselves until they are 3 - 4 weeks old. To stimulate the passing of urine or faeces, the mother cat licks the kitten's rear end before and after feeding. So, mum’s tongue needs to be imitated, by using a warm damp cloth or cotton wool and gently stimulating their anogenital area, (the region around the bottom and the urinary opening).
Weaning
Weaning can commence from around 4 weeks old, with the introduction of wet kitten food mixed with the milk replacer. From 6 to 7 weeks of age, kittens should be fully weaned; drinking water and eating kitten food.
If you find lone kittens
If you find kittens without a mother cat nearby, please leave them alone at first, allowing enough time to see if mum returns before getting help. However, if they appear to be in danger i.e. they are cold, wet or sick, call a local vet or animal rescue shelter straight away.
More Information
Want a Kitten? Please Rescue!
Cat & Kitten Fostering - Could You Foster?
Contributor: Christine Shale, Manager at Cat Sanctuary Norfolk
Published: July 2022
